Pattern Drafting: Fancy Pyjamas

4m colour silk crepe de chine
1m of white crepe de chine for piping


Image result for pattern manipulation dartless bodice

Trace bodice front with a closed shoulder dart.
Square down from underarm point (parallel to centre front).
Square the waist (perpendicular to Centre Front).
Following the bust line (which might be at an angle) Add 4cm ease, then square down.

From CF, draw parallel lines 2.5cm either side.
From the Neck point, mark a point 3cm towards the shoulder point. From this, draw a line to join up to the inner 2.5cm line at the CF bust line point. Also mark a point 3cm the other way from t eh neck point following the shoulder seam line.
Sketch out the bottom part of the notched collar starting from the 1st button (which will be at the point of tension on the bust line). This triangle can be any shape you like. I did the following:

Join the 3cm point that was outwards from the neck point with the CF bust line point on the outer 2.5cm line. From this new line, measure a 25 Degree angle, and extend this angle line by 17.5cm. From this new point, draw a line that joins to the intersection of where the first line passes the neckline.

Following the line of the 2nd 30.8 Degree angle, draw a line of 17.5cm. From the end of this line, measure an angle of 100 degrees. Join this line with the 10.4 degree angle line.

To curve the corner, dissect the angle of the 17.5cm line and the last line drawn. Place a protractor on this dissection line pointing curved side towards the corner. Push it up the line towards the corner until the curve touches the lines either side of it. Draw this curve.

Copy this triangle, and flip it along the outer line, this will be the fold of this part of the collar.

Buttons are spaced at 9cm starting from the point of tension on the bust line.


Button placket and collar facing


Do the same as for the front to square the bodice (ignore all darts on the back). Take 1cm off the shoulder line at the neck point. Extend the shoulder line to match the front shoulder line (18cm).

“Sports collar”

Sports Collar Draft