These adaptations need to be done on a pattern with no seam allowances. All measurements are in centimetres (cm). In the diagrams, the green lines are the original pattern lines, the pink lines are construction lines and the red lines are new pattern lines.
Bodice Back
- Mark a point (X) 1.5cm upwards perpendicular to the shoulder slope line.
- Draw a line from the neck point to point (X), and continue it. The length of the whole line should be 30cm. Mark the end of this line point (Y).
- Mark a point 5cm down from the underarm point along the side seam.
- Draw a horizontal line outwards from this point 3.5cm in length. This line should be perpendicular to the bodice centre back. Mark this point (Z).
- Join point (Z) to point (Y).
- Using a curve ruler, join point (Z) to the bottom side seam point.
Bodice Front
Bodice Front Side Seam
- Do steps 1 – 5 from the bodice back instructions.
- Close up the side dart.
- Use the bodice back pattern piece to transfer the same side curve to the front bodice pattern.
- The side dart legs may need to be extended.
- Then make sure the side seams are still the same length.